Why Is This Guy Walking Around With No Head?

The strange story of Saint Denis, Notre-Dame Cathedral, and one of Paris's most unusual legends

Every year, millions of visitors come to Paris to see Notre-Dame Cathedral. They admire its magnificent Gothic architecture, photograph its famous towers, and marvel at the intricate stone carvings that decorate its façade.

But there's one fellow standing near the entrance who deserves a little more attention.

He's holding his own severed head.

Yes, you read that correctly. His head is in his hands. And according to legend, he didn't just stand around holding it. He picked it up and went for a walk.

Welcome to one of the strangest stories in Paris history.

Meet Saint Denis: The Man Who Lost His Head

The headless gentleman is Saint Denis, traditionally recognized as the first bishop of Paris and one of the city's patron saints.

To understand his story, we need to go back to the third century, when Paris was a Roman settlement known as Lutetia.

According to Christian tradition, Denis came to the region to spread Christianity. Unfortunately for him, the Roman authorities weren't particularly enthusiastic about his activities.

Denis was arrested, along with two companions, Rusticus and Eleutherius. They were sentenced to death, and tradition places their executions on a hill overlooking Paris.

Today, we know that hill as Montmartre, one of the most popular neighborhoods in Paris.

The name Montmartre is traditionally associated with the Mount of Martyrs, a reference to the executions that supposedly occurred there.

But Denis's story was far from over.

Losing His Head Was Apparently Just a Minor Inconvenience

According to legend, after the executioner chopped off Denis's head, something extraordinary happened.

Instead of collapsing and remaining dead, Denis stood up, picked up his severed head, and started walking.

And he didn't just take a few steps.

The legend says he walked several kilometers, carrying his head in his hands, while continuing to pray along the way.

Imagine being a Roman soldier witnessing that!

Eventually, Denis reached a location north of Paris, where he finally stopped and was buried.

That location became the site of the Basilica of Saint-Denis, one of France's most historically important churches.

Now, before anyone asks whether a man actually walked several miles carrying his own head, there's no historical evidence that this miraculous event occurred. It is a religious legend that developed over the centuries.

But what a story!

Where Can You Find the Headless Saint at Notre-Dame?

Here's the fun part. The next time you visit Notre-Dame Cathedral, you can find Saint Denis yourself.

Stand facing the cathedral's famous western façade. There are three grand entrances. Look at the left-hand entrance, called the Portal of the Virgin.

Saint Denis is among the statues decorating the left side of this portal. Look for the figure holding a head against his chest.

What makes this particularly interesting is that thousands of tourists pass beneath these statues without realizing what they're looking at.

There's another historical twist. The statue you see today is not the medieval original. The statues of this portal were destroyed during the French Revolution in 1793 and recreated during the cathedral's 19th-century restoration.

So while the story goes back many centuries, the present sculpture is considerably younger.

From a Headless Saint to the Kings of France

Saint Denis's story doesn't end at Notre-Dame.

The Basilica of Saint-Denis, just north of central Paris, eventually became the burial place of generations of French royalty.

In fact, the basilica became the final resting place of 40 French kings and 26 queens, making it one of the most significant royal burial sites in Europe. Visitors today can admire its remarkable collection of royal tombs and funerary sculptures.

It also holds a special place in architectural history. The rebuilding of the abbey church in the 12th century helped establish the Gothic style that later influenced cathedrals throughout Europe, including Notre-Dame.

So the next time you see that unusual statue, remember that the fellow holding his head is connected to far more than a bizarre medieval legend.

He's also connected to the development of Paris, the history of French royalty, and the beginnings of Gothic architecture.

Not bad for a guy who lost his head.

The Traveling Professor's Paris Travel Tip

One of the great pleasures of visiting Paris is discovering the stories that most tourists never notice.

It's easy to stand in front of Notre-Dame, take a photograph, and move on to the next attraction. But sometimes the most memorable part of a visit isn't the enormous cathedral in front of you. It's a small detail that tells an extraordinary story.

Next time you're at Notre-Dame, look for Saint Denis. You'll have a story to tell your traveling companions that they're unlikely to forget.

And while you're exploring Paris, remember that the city's most fascinating sights aren't always the ones listed at the top of every travel guide.

That's one of the things we enjoy about our Paris Once Again small-group tours. We want travelers to experience Paris, not simply check attractions off a sightseeing list. With small groups, plenty of free time, and a centrally located hotel, there's time to appreciate the stories, neighborhoods, and little discoveries that make the city so fascinating.

Sometimes you just need to look a little closer.

Or, in this case, look for a man who seems to have misplaced his head.