Brasserie Lipp. 151, boulevard Saint Germain, 6th arrondissement. Métro: St Germain des-Prés.
I had my first meal ever in Paris here. I like to go for the generous choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with various meats) but sometimes the smell of fresh local seafood dishes (the cod, in particular) can change my mind. The menu (except for the prices) has not changed in 75 years. Try Chartier for something on the same style, but less expensive. Reservations a day or two before dining are recommended. Ask to be seated on the main floor. Dinner for two is about 125-150 euros or so. Website: https://www.brasserielipp.fr/
Les Éditeurs. 4, Carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th arrondissement. Métro: Odéon.
Not for dinner, but it’s a good spot to rendezvous with friends for a café au lait or a light snack. Look closely, you might spot a celebrity here. Inexpensive. Website: www.lesediteurs.fr.
Bistrot d’Henri. 16, rue Princesse, 6th arrondissement. Métro: St Germain des-Prés or Saint-Sulpice.
Brothers David and Julien run this friendly spot with about 25 seats. The menu has a strong Breton (Atlantic coast) influence. That means dishes like duck breast with honey, lamb with prunes, and natural-tasting seafood crepes. I never say “no” to anything with cheese, especially the potatoes. It should be about 30-35 euros per person. Website: www.lebistrotdhenri.1001menus.com.
Pâtisserie Viennoise. 8, rue de l’École de Médecine, 6th arrondissement. Métro: Odéon.
What a classic pastry shop! I go out of my way to have breakfast here with the Sorbonne students. It’s not bad for lunch either. Most everything is made on the premises – from flaky croissants to cinnamon dusted apple tarts to yodel-inducing strudels. Angelina may have the reputation of having the best hot chocolate in town, but Pâtisserie Viennoise beats it by a kilometer. The creamy chocolate cup is topped with a dollop of whipped cream stiffer than the desk clerk at The Ritz. Closed weekends.
Les Bouquinistes. 53, Quai des Grands Augustins, 6th arrondissement. Métro: St-Michel.
This left-bank Guy Savoy restaurant is in the shadow of the Notre Dame Cathedral. It is good, trendy, and hip. It was a perfect choice for a Valentine’s Day dinner I enjoyed here. About €200 for two. Website: www.lesbouquinistes.com.
A La Petite Chaise. 36 rue de Grenelle, 7th arrondissement. Métro: Rue du Bac.
Pay no attention to the claim of Le Procope as being the oldest restaurant in Paris – A La Petite Chaise rules. The dour-faced wait staff is all business while serving up fresh French classics like foie gras, real onion soup capped with sharp gruyère cheese. Seafood plates are super-fresh but the pasta and meat dishes deserve merit too. You know it’s authentically French when upon noticing wealthy older French gentlemen accompanied by their considerably younger “nieces”. The prix fixe menu is a good value. Website: www.alapetitechaise.fr.
Les Cocottes. 135, rue St. Dominique. 7th arrondissement. Métro: École Militaire.
Another Christian Constant gem. Set up almost like an American diner with a French slant, it is casual and not expensive. The unique main dishes are served en cocotte, or casserole style. You are likely to see Chef Constant there, and most likely, he would love to chat with you. Website: www.maisonconstant.com/les-cocottes.
Chartier. 7, rue Faubourg Montmartre, 9th arrondissement. Métro: Grands Boulevards.
Step back over 100 years in time to legendary Bouillon Chartier. It’s great fun in a grand old dining hall. Diners may find themselves sharing a water bottle or bread basket with someone from Paris, Finland, Korea, or Argentina. No one will admit this is the best food they’ve eaten but an appetizer (called an entrée in Paris), a plat (what we call an entrée in the U.S.), dessert, wine (or water) goes for about €20. No reservations, just line up outside and chat up the friendly crowd while waiting to be seated. Diners are not admitted after 10 p.m. Website: www.restaurant-chartier.com.